If your S10 has bad transmission fluid, it can cause the torque converter to go bad. Taking a look at the transmission fluid should be the first thing that you do. It can tell you a lot about the health of your transmission in general. There are many different things that can cause your S10 to have torque converter problems. Here are the most common ones. Transmission fluid is the lifeblood of the transmission and the torque converter bolted to it.
This will in turn cause the transmission to overheat. This is one of the most common causes of torque converter problems. This can lead to a feeling of extra slipping and chattering at speed. Make sure you take a look at the fluid before you do anything with your transmission.
The clutch that locks the transmission to the engine at highway speed can wear out just like a normal manual transmission clutch. This is one of the most common issues that causes a torque converter to go bad. This will create the same symptoms as the bad seals in that the converter is going to puke a bunch of ATF all over your garage floor, but you should also be feeling quite the vibration at speed. If you suspect this could be what is going on with your transmission, just know that if those bolts come all the way out the least that is going to happen is that it disengages from the input shaft.
It takes a bit longer for the transmission to warm up than the engine. Give it a few extra minutes after the engine warms up all the way. This will ensure that the transmission is shifting as it would nearly all the time that it normally operates.
Pay particular attention to any shuddering and vibration as you accelerate. Shuddering and vibration are in no way a guarantee that something is wrong with the torque converter, but they are a strong indicator there could be something wrong. This makes diagnosing torque converter problems challenging.
Good luck with your S10! Slipping Higher Speed Nearly all modern automatic transmissions have a locking torque converter. The speedometer cable can be removed with a pair of channel locks. It unscrews from the speedometergear housing. For 4WD applications, the speedometer cable or wiring is attached to the transfer case instead. Cooling lines can be difficult to access.
On some vehicles, you may have to lower the transmission slightly to gain access to the cooling lines. The rear transmission mount is bolted to the transmission crossmember. Some mounts use two bolts, others one bolt. The crossmember must be removed from most vehicles in order to remove the transmission. Once the transmission rear mount bolts have been removed, raise the transmission high enough to remove the crossmember.
Some crossmembers are two or three pieces, and can be taken apart. Some have to be twisted and lowered from the frame rails after removing the attaching bolts. Many times they will cross right under the transmission, and will have to be removed before lowering the transmission from the vehicle.
Remove any shift linkage attached to the transmission, and the speedometer cable or wiring. The transmission cooling lines must be removed from the case.
On some vehicles they may be difficult to access. They may also be difficult to loosen due to rust and corrosion from road salt. Worst-case scenario, the lines can be cut and replaced or the transmission lowered slightly to gain better access to the lines. The other alternative is laying over the engine and removing them a quarter-turn at a time with an open- or box-end wrench. If the swivel socket is flopping around too much, it can be wrapped with a piece of electrical tape.
This will make it easier to guide onto the bolts from under the vehicle, and it will still swivel when removing them. A plate can be made to turn a standard shop floor jack into a transmission jack. I have used this plate to remove scores of transmissions and transfer cases over the years.
It may not reach high enough for all vehicles, but gets them close enough so I can wrestle them in the rest of the way. If the transmission was not drained prior to removing it from the vehicle, place it in a holding fixture mounted to the workbench, and drain into a bucket or pan. Leave it in this position for at least 20 minutes.
The torque converter can be removed and placed over a 5-gallon bucket to drain. A new torque converter should be included for all rebuilt transmissions. Slowly add 1 or 2 quarts of fluid to the converter, and lubricate the seal surface with clean ATF or TransGel. Slide the converter into the transmission, while turning it at the same time. Move the transmission lift into place and strap the transmission to the lift if one is available.
Remove the rear mounting bolts and raise the transmission to facilitate removal of the rear frame mount.
Some vehicles may also have exhaust systems that will need to be removed prior to removing the transmission. The extreme heat that most exhaust systems see will usually have most of the fasteners heavily rusted. Plan on soaking most of the bracket, flange, and clamp bolts with penetrating oil before attempting to loosen them. It is recommended to support the engine prior to removing the transmission bell-housing bolts.
Some GM vehicles have very little clearance. Remove the bell-housing bolts. The top bolts can be extremely difficult to access on some models. Some vehicles, such as late model Blazers and Suburbans, may also have studded bolts with nuts that hold various other items in place behind the bell housing, such as the main wiring harness. With the transmission securely supported on the jack, and all the transmission-to-engine bolts removed, pull the transmission back far enough so it can be lowered to the ground.
A long pry bar may be needed to help break things loose. Once on the ground, the torque converter can be removed to reduce weight and make the transmission easier to handle. Some fluid will be lost; remove the torque converter quickly and cover the opening to prevent any dirt from getting into the unit. The transmission can now be bolted to your holding fixture and placed on the workbench. If not drained previously, turn the unit so the tail housing is pointing toward the ground, remove the slip yoke, and drain into a large pan or bucket.
Leave the unit in this position for at least 20 minutes prior to taking it apart. Prior to installing the transmission into place, you need to make sure that the torque converter is fully engaged into the transmission stator, input shaft, and oil pump. With the transmission sitting on the pan, carefully install the torque converter. Spin the torque converter while pushing it back towards the transmission. This will help to align the input shaft and stator splines.
The transmission oil pump must also engage with the two notches in the converter hub. The converter may be difficult to get in the transmission when a new bushing is installed in the pump.
0コメント